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How to: Brake job

 
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BEE0912
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:17 pm    Post subject: How to: Brake job Reply with quote

This is a how-to for anyone doing brake rotor and/or brake pad replacement on a 2002-2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi truck.

For the demo I will be replacing my brakes at 40,000 miles.

I am replacing mine with:

Rotors SP Performance diamond slotted
- Front $168.03
- Rears $160.40
http://moesperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_10_19_259_1013&products_id=3906

Pads Centric Posi-Quiet Extended Wear pads
- Front $62.00
- Rears $46.00
The pads came from Zeckhausen Racing. They do not have them on their site for our trucks, but I ordered them from Zeckhausen himself over the phone.
(Man what a great looking truck! Oh yeah it's Kevan's!)
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Dodge/Ram_SRT10.htm


Total to my door: $436.43


Step 1
Collect all the new brake parts. In my case that will be (4) new rotors, (1) set of front pads, and (1) set of rear pads:








Step 2
Break the lug nuts loose using a 22mm socket and jack the truck up onto jack stands:


Using a drill is a great trick to take the lugs off quick after they are loose and the truck is in the air:


Step 3
After removing the wheels you are ready to begin the removal of the old parts.

Rear

Compress the pistons in the caliper so it can be removed.
A clamp is a great tool for this because it will not damage the paint or any of the parts.
(You can also use a screwdriver against the caliper and the rotor if you want. However if you are only doing pads and not new rotors, I would not recommend the screwdriver so you know 100% that you will not do any damage to the rotors being re used.)


Remove the (2) 10mm bolts on the back side of the caliper.

Top

Bottom


After removing the (2) bolts the caliper. The caliper will then pop out of the bracket and come away from the pads and rotor:


A bungie cord is a great way to keep the caliper out of the way and keep pressure off of the hoses when you are working:


Step 4
The pads are the next item on the list to be removed. The outer and the inner pads will slide away from the rotor in the bracket, then come out on the ends.

Outer:


Inner:


Coming out:


Step 5
The caliper bracket needs to be removed for the rotor to be removed. There are (2) 13/16" bolts holing it on. On the back side use a breaker bar to remove the (2) bolts and the bracket will come away from the assembly:




Step 6
The rotor is ready to come off. There is a small clip that is used on the assembly line so the rotors do not fall off the vehicle. This clip needs to be removed. It can be reused if you want but is not needed so I just cut then off with some side cuts:


Step 7
Time for some anti-seize so the rotors come off next time (Yes- I over-did it on this one. You do not need this much!):


Then the new rotor can now be put on:


Step 8
Clean the brake pad brackets on the caliper bracket with a brass wire brush:


Then apply blue Loctite to the bracket bolts:


Reinstall the (2) 13/16in bolts and torque them to 100 ft.lbs. on the caliper bracket.

Step 9

Install the new pads the same way the old ones came out. Inserting them back into the bracket and sliding then inward to the rotor:


Step 10

Reinstall the caliper. Line it up and pop it back onto the bracket. If the bolt holes donít line up then something is wrong.
DO NOT FORCE IT IN! Just compress the piston all the way and it will slide right back into place:

(Ignore the chipped paint. That will be a job for another day!)

Blue Loctite the (2) 10mm bolts and re install them:




Torque them to 22 ft.lb:




The rear is now DONE! Repeat this on the other side and you are ready to tackle the front!





Front

Step 11

Compress the pistons in the caliper so it can be removed:


Step 12

Remove the (2) 1/2in bolts on the back side of the caliper:




Like the front, swing the caliper away and hang it out of the way:




Step 13

Remove the old pads by sliding them away from the rotor and removing them from the bracket:




Step 14
Remove the (2) 7/8in bolts that hold the caliper bracket on:


Step 15

After depressing the clip, the rotor can be removed:


Step 16

Put the new rotor on, after the calliper bracket is cleaned:


Blue Loctite can be put on the 7/8" bolts the caliper bracket can be reinstalled:




Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 130 ft.lbs.:


Step 17

Install the new pads. They will slide back onto the bracket the same way the olds ones came out:


Step 18

Reinstall the caliper over the new pads:


Blue loctite can be put on the 1/2" bolts and they are torqued to 24 ft.lbs.




This completes the install!


NOTE: pump the brakes back up before driving. Also Proper beding of the pads is required. .









More pix to come!

©2008 KEITH NORTON
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED


Last edited by BEE0912 on Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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chick stead
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks this is going to save me a lot of embarrassment, It's been a long time and things sure have changed
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Kevan
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taught you well I have, young Jedi.

Nice work, Keith!
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BEE0912
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kevan wrote:
Taught you well I have, young Jedi.

Nice work, Keith!


Thanks if you have anything to add since you were there please PM me Wink
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INTENSE
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very good tutorial keith... New rotors look sharp.. Smile
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BEE0912
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Revised Wink
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mopar71
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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice pics, I had a hard time with the rear disks because of the ebrake.There is a rubber plug behind the wheel on the rears that has a star wheel inside to loosen up the ebrake pads,then I was able to remove the rotor.In case anybody has a problem removing theirs. Very Happy
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BEE0912
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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mopar71 wrote:
Nice pics, I had a hard time with the rear disks because of the ebrake.There is a rubber plug behind the wheel on the rears that has a star wheel inside to loosen up the ebrake pads,then I was able to remove the rotor.In case anybody has a problem removing theirs. Very Happy


Yeah the rears were a Bitch to get off
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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice "How-To" Keith. This is a big help to have these types of tutorials up. Thanks!
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