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rear axle lunchbox locker info

 
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dmacell
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 8:04 pm    Post subject: rear axle lunchbox locker info Reply with quote

I think I have an open end rear on my rumblebee and with all that power from the supercharger the right rear tire breaks loose at even light throttle. Which in turn builds boost and proceeds to melt it
Im looking at getting a lunchbox locker for it so i can get a bit of traction.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differentials/Chrysler-9-25in-31-Spline-Open-Case-No-Slip.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5589&t_pn=PTX9203923105
Apparently it will fit if i i have the 31 spline axle.
Question is how do i decipher the code on the rear axle tag?
The window sticker only says 3.92 axle ratio
Here are the numbers on it if it helps
9.25DR4x4
52114182AA
Thnx

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bee 1422
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 8:58 pm    Post subject: rear axle Reply with quote

most were open with 392s,dont no why no sure grip on these great trucks,i put one of the power trax in my truck ,have been very happy with it!
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dmacell
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do u know if they are 31 spline?
For $500 i dont want to order the wrong one...

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zuke
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, your axle should be 31 Spline.

That's a pretty steep price for the PowerTrax though... I deal with East Coast Gear Supply for Axle Stuff;

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-128226-chrysler-9-25-powertrax-lock-right-1220-lr-31-spline-open.html

Now, that said, I have one of these in the back of my Jeep TJ right now, and wouldn't dream of putting one in my Bee, These are NOT a limited slip, despite what they say, they are an Automatic Locker, And if I'm on the gas, even slightly, going into a corner, It "pushes" the jeep around, I can't imagine what it would do with the kind of power you are pushing.

If you ever drive your Bee in the snow, I wouldn't even think remotely of putting a lunchbox locker in it. The Powertrax is one of the best ones for street use, but is still down right dangerous if you run it on ice, as soon as one wheel gets better traction, you will go sideways.

If you strictly run it in fair weather, then it isn't too bad once you get use to it, you learn to let off the gas in turns.

Oh, and Bee's could be had with the factory, LSD, mine has one, but it wasn't "Standard" on Bees.

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dmacell
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I drove my 4.7 dakota for 10 years with a lsd rear and it was pretty good in the snow even when i didnt use the 4wd. Just had to mind the rear when it slid out a bit.
Whats the difference between the right locker and the no slip locker other than the 100$ price? I thought the no slip was more streetable?
Might be better to save up for a real limited slip replacement if what you say is accurate.
Thnx for the input. Very Happy

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dmacell
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was hoping it was more like a limited slip. I found this on their website but could use some input if someone has used the new type.

While both products offer maximum traction, full wheel differentiation, and easy installation, each product has features and benefits that meet the needs of different customers. The No-Slip Traction System uses SynTRAC technology and is the latest design in traction adding differentials. It provides the maximum traction of a locking differential combined with the smooth and quiet operation of a limited-slip device. The Lock-Right Locker is our original product line that offers extreme value in a traction-adding differential. The Lock-Right provides maximum traction, but a light clicking noise can be heard when turning as the Lock-Right gears allow for wheel differentiation. On some vehicles the engine noise will overcome the clicking noise

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zuke
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The No-Slip is supposed to be slightly more streetable (It's the one I have in the jeep), but near as I can tell, the only difference is in the springs and shape of the teeth on the Driver and Coupler. If you look at the exploded views, they both are the same...

The No Slip engages much more quietly than the Lock Right, you can hear the lock right when it's allowing the wheels to travel at different speeds.

I've been on the trails with both, and the lock right is noisy, I've driven on the streets with both Spartan Lunchboxes, and the Powertrax, and while the PowerTrax is smoother, and way quieter, it still Locks, and you have to let off the gas for it to unlock.

The main difference between a limited slip and a locker is how they provide traction. Most limited slips use a clutch pack, while lockers use teeth. A locker allows one wheel to travel faster than the one with power, and that is the ratcheting sound that lockers make, as the teeth slide over each other (The PowerTrax uses ramped teeth and a "slower" spring to minimize the noise).

A limited slip still allows the wheel without power to go slower than the other (Like an Open Differential), and using clutches (Like a Clutch in a standard transmission or Brakes pads, it's a friction material) allows much smoother and quieter operation.

So, the real difference between the two offerings from Richmond Gear is the amount of noise they make, and the brutatity of how they engage. But once engaged, they both are lockers, and stay locked until you let off the gas.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could go with a true limited slip, cost is roughly the same as the lockers you are looking at;

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aub-542070/overview/

But these are ALOT more work to install, and if you've never set pinion depth and back lash on a ring and pinion, it's a very tedious process..

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dmacell
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellant information!
Im having my mechanic do the installation either way so its prolly best to spend a little bit more in labor and get a bit less driveline shock than from one of the lockers.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your mechanic will probably charge significantly more for the LSD install as it does take a lot more time, and he may insist on a Carrier Install Kit as well (New Bearings and Shims, Usually < $100) You may want to consider a re-gear at the same time to something even deeper than 3.92, (A 4.56 would really put some power down for you!) As he would be doing all the work involved in that anyway. Honestly though, the re-gear might be way overkill with the amount of power you have already..
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dmacell
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gears are plenty low enough already but thnx for the heads up. Just needs a bit more traction.
So ill prolly be looking at 8-900 bucks to get it all set up, including parts n labor then. It sound like it will be better as a daily driver even if its only 5 miles round trip to work everyday. Lol!

Gona be savin up for a couple months for that. Thanfully i have a few small mods for christmas to keep me busy till then...

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I would not go any bigger than the 3.92 with that supercharger because going any lower and you are going to catch he-- trying to find traction.
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