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Codes PO137 and PO300

 
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thelaminator
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 6:30 pm    Post subject: Codes PO137 and PO300 Reply with quote

Code PO137 was coming on and off and now PO300 is on. From what I been reading this is common for this truck. Where do I begin to eliminate some causes.
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booky
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your truck is running fine, I would just disconnect the negative battery cable for about an hour, then reconnect.

This will reset your PCM and see if that takes care of the codes.

Good luck.

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zuke
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, good advice on where to start from Booky, If that doesn't do it, Both codes you are getting can be indicative of low voltage, Check the general condition of your battery, battery terminals and alternator..
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thelaminator
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 9:34 pm    Post subject: Code PO137 and PO300 Reply with quote

Now check engine light stays on. Truck runs rough and stalls sitting at a traffic light.
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zuke
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 10:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Code PO137 and PO300 Reply with quote

thelaminator wrote:
Now check engine light stays on. Truck runs rough and stalls sitting at a traffic light.


This is after fallowing Booky's suggestion? Still got the same codes? How old is the Battery? Run By Autozone or Advance and have them "Load Check" the battery. They'll tell you the alternator's condition too. (Assuming they use the in car tester).

If that all checks good, and you check the major ground connections (Battery to Body, Body to Engine), If everything seems good there, Do you smell unbernt gas in the exhaust? You may need to change your Downstream (After Catalytic Converter, Driver's side) O2 Sensor... Check it's wiring first though...

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CaliberNick
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced my battery and my P0300 went away for a while, but has now come back. At the time I had the alternator tested and they said it was good but I am unsure, so I may replace it anyways. Does anyone know if there is a stronger alternator, maybe was an option on some trucks, or later years, that will fit in?
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zuke
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You probably have the 136 Amp alternator (56028699AA), you could upgrade to the 160 Amp hd alternator (56028697AA) that was available for our trucks.

http://www.amazon.com/ALTERNATOR-DURANGO-PICKUP-56028697AA-R6028697AA/dp/B004PWOBA4

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thelaminator
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 6:27 pm    Post subject: code PO300 Update Reply with quote

My 2004 dodge 1500 rumble bee truck was at the dealership for these codes coming up. So far so good driving the truck for 90 minutes no check engine light and plenty of power.
Then sitting at a light is where it all began again. RPM's dropped, misfiring, will only go 30-40 MPH. Stomped on the gas pedal and seemed back to normal but still misfiring. And what was weird that no check engine light was on. So just for the fun of it I scanned it. PO300 code appeared.
Multiple misfiring. Tomorrow morning it goes back to dealership.
Any ideas on what's going on with this? Crying or Very sad
Dealership is replacing another o2 sensor
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CaliberNick
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I Just recieved the last of my stuff to try and fix this. I'm going with a complete ignition overhaul. ALready have a new battery in. Gonna do coils, plugs, and wires next. Also going to clean the MAF sensor. Then I have a 160A alternator I may try depending if the other stuff works or not. Other than that only things I can think off are O2 sensors, or Fuel injectors.
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CaliberNick
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you pulled a plug yet? I was getting P0300 code. When I was doing my recent work on the truck, I cleaned the MAF and noticed a spark plug gap of .080 (Should be .040-.045). After replacing all those along with new coils and some other stuff. My P0300 has gone away. I still get a P0132 (simillar to P0137). I think it is a Bad O2 sensor. If you replace it DO NOT use Bosch. Go with a Denso. I hear a lot of people having issues with Bosch O2 sensors. The Dodge ECUs are just finicky when it comes to O2 sensors.
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thelaminator
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 9:15 pm    Post subject: Code updates Reply with quote

Went back to the dealer and replaced another 02 sensor and the found that the main problem is the catalytic converter so they replaced that also.
I put over 100 miles on and so far no codes. But it seems like it lost that kick when shifting. You know the ones that jolt you back into your seat. Could this be a result of what they replaced? Before this truck I had a 98 1500 and I could adjust the kick down cable. With this truck you can't?
Any suggestions to get this back?
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zuke
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 4:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Code updates Reply with quote

thelaminator wrote:
Went back to the dealer and replaced another 02 sensor and the found that the main problem is the catalytic converter so they replaced that also.
I put over 100 miles on and so far no codes. But it seems like it lost that kick when shifting. You know the ones that jolt you back into your seat. Could this be a result of what they replaced? Before this truck I had a 98 1500 and I could adjust the kick down cable. With this truck you can't?
Any suggestions to get this back?


The change in backpressure when they removed the plugged cat is probably why you lost that feeling of a sudden power burst.

There is no physical kickdown cable on these trucks, since it's all throttle by wire. You probably haven't lost anything, but if you want that feeling back, you'll need to get a tuner, and change the shift points in the transmission to a more aggressive setting.

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CaliberNick
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 9:49 am    Post subject: Re: Code updates Reply with quote

zuke wrote:

There is no physical kickdown cable on these trucks, since it's all throttle by wire. You probably haven't lost anything, but if you want that feeling back, you'll need to get a tuner, and change the shift points in the transmission to a more aggressive setting.


I'm still new to these trucks, but I did some research on Tow/Haul mode and what it is, and I learned there is a Kickdown gear called 2nd Prime between 2nd and 3rd and is essentially a kickdown gear when you get on it on the highway. However if you use Tow/Haul mode, this becomes a regular gear (and 5th gear is no longer used).

Regulare Mode: 1->2->3->4->5 Shifts Early and often
Tow/Haul Mode 1->2->2P->3->4 Shifts Later, Firmer and Less frequently

To Laminator: Using Tow/Haul mode will give you a bit more of that throw you back in your seat sensation, and from everything I've read is totally safe to use even when not towing. In fact, the idea of it is to make your transmission work less and thus not heat up as much. Something that is a major concern when towing.
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