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DIY: $5 'Ejection Port' Modification
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Kevan
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:31 pm    Post subject: DIY: $5 'Ejection Port' Modification Reply with quote

"EJECTION PORT" (aka 'Cubby Hole', 'In-Dash Storage') MODIFICATION FOR 2004-2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10's & OTHER FULL-SIZE RAM TRUCKS.

This DIY article will cover how to modify the 'Ejection Port' in the center console of the SRT-10, Rumble Bee, Daytona, GTX and any other full-size Ram pickup.

Here's a pic of the offender:

Many have tried but none have succeeded in keeping ANYTHING in that little cubby hole, especially during hard shifts from 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, or 4-5.
The problem is that there's no front panel, so things that are placed in there are at the mercy of thrust and gravity. Lord knows the trucks have plenty of thrust. Very Happy

I tried two different methods:
- Multiple bands
- Netting

I'll go through both modifications, and you can choose the one that best suits your needs.
I found that the bands work well for heavier items as they have more pulling power and are more difficult to stretch (which is also more work). The plus side is that that you can insert stuff between the bands and have them hold it in place (like a cell phone, parking pass, etc.).
The netting is easier to 'move', but isn't as strong as the bands. It will work great for lighter items (pack of smokes, sunglasses, etc.) but will have a tough time with heavier items like lead bricks and 5-packs of D-cell batteries. The bands are also solid, so things in the ejection port are hidden (slightly) from prying eyes. The netting is see-thru, which helps when you're trying to locate stuff quickly, or if you don't mind everyone seeing your rolls of hundreds.


Tools required
:


- #2 Phillips screwdriver
- Pair of scissors

Supplies:

(1) 4-pack of Scunci hair bands (long).

Found at the local grocery store for $4.99.

.....or......

(1) pair of fishnet socks (or stockings)

Found at Nordstrom's for $5.00 (3 pr. for $15).

The first thing we need to do is remove the NEG battery terminal:


Set the connection aside (or block it as in my picture):


Removing the NEG. connector and letting it sit for at least 2 minutes allows the capacitors for the air bags to discharge. No one wants an accidental airbag in the face.
To pass the time, check the air pressure in your tires. Make sure they're properly inflated.

Now we can begin to remove the center console plate.

One screw by the grocery bag/purse hook needs to be removed:


The console plate is held on with 2-way clips. Simply pull them away from the dash and they will pop out.
DON'T PULL TOO HARD! There are wires behind there that also need to be disconnected!

I start at the grocery bag hook:


Then move to the upper left hand corner:


Then to the lower left hand corner:


And lastly, the upper right hand corner to pull the final clips free:


Your console will look something like this:

The wire connections are as follows (Near to Far):
- Pass. Airbag
- Fan Control
- Heater Control
- Starter Button

Remove them in any order you wish. Each has a safety clip that needs to be depressed prior to lifting them straight out of their connection point. Remove them in any order you wish. Here's how I did it this time:

Airbag connector:


Fan Control connector:


Heater Control connector:


Starter Button connector (SRT-10 only):


Take extra care when removing the connectors so you don't scratch the face of the console when the connectors are all off. All it takes is one little bonk to ruin your day.

Here's what your dash will look like with the center console removed:


The center console:

The Ejection Port is located at the bottom of the console face and is held on there by (4) Phillips head screws.

Remove each screw.
Bottom Left:


Top Left:


Bottom Right:


Top Right:


The Ejection Port will simply lift away from the center console plate:


THE BANDS
For this, you simply need to wrap the entire band around the ejection port, front to back.
Line up the 3 (or 4) bands across the face:

I found that 3 works best.

Also make sure that the seam of the band (where they put the two ends together) is on the back of the ejection port box. We don't want that showing up front.The bands I used have a rubber 'stripe' on one side. You can see both the joining seam and the rubber stripe in this pic:

I placed that stripe facing the inside of the ejection port. Gave a little cleaner look on the outside. Again, this is totally your call.

Once the bands are in place, they can be aligned with each other and slid as close to the bottom of the ejection port edge as possible.

Re-attach the ejection port to the front console, but only screw the (4) mounting screws in half-way:

This will allow you to adjust the bands (if necessary) before clamping them down.

When all is aligned and you're happy with it, tighten the (4) screws.
This will essentially lock the bands in place between the ejection port edge and the back face of the console and keep them from sliding up or down:


It should look something like this:


Since the bands are level and the bottom edge of the ejection port is not, there will be a slight gap there. Anything small enough to fit thorough that gap shouldn't be in your ride anyway.

If you would like, you can add some electrical tape:

...or zip ties (or both) to the bands in the back to keep them in place on the back.


Another option would be to trim each band:

...then tie a knot down by where the bands go to the front of the console face. This will further prevent them from slipping:


Then trim away the excess band:


THE NETTING
This one is a bit more difficult to install, but looks and works great.

The sock needs to be stretched properly to get the mesh of the netting spread wide enough to look right. I wanted it slightly higher on the outside edges and cover about 1/2 of the ejection port hole in the center.

I started by aligning the sock left-to-right, and then looped one of the holes in the sock through the plastic tabs used to for the rubber floor pad in the ejection port, and also over the lower mounting screw tab on the ejection port.
I repeated this with the tab on the other side as well:


The sock was then stretched up and out towards the alignment pin hole on the top edges of the ejection port:

I continued to do this until I found the proper "pattern" I wanted.

The tricky part now was to hold those specific points on the top edge of the sock, and get them placed on the plastic alignment pins and lower edge screw mount tabs on the console face:


A different method would be to stretch the sock between the two alignment pins:


After placing the ejection port box on the console to hold the top two corners of the netting in place, you could pull down on the sock to get it to stretch properly to meet the rubber floor mount tabs on the bottom of the ejection port box:

I'm sure either way would work.

Make sure that you pull the netting *toward* the body of ejection port when hooking the netting onto tabs or screw mounts:


If you install the screws about 1/2 way, it will still allow you to make adjustments on the sock so it stretches properly onto the alignment tabs and rubber floor mounting tabs.

Once you've reached your desired 'stretch', you can then tighten the (4) ejection port mounting screws (in any order), and this will clamp the netting in place.

Now you have all this extra sock material.

Trim it away using the scissors.
BE CAREFUL not to trim any of the netting that's being used to hold the sock in place on the tabs!!!

Your end result should look something like this:


Another (brighter) pic:


Now that your Ejection Port is taken care of, you can put your console back onto the dash.

Place it properly, then re-attach all the connectors. I always do the air bag last....but that's just me.

Set the console in place and push firmly to seat all the clips.
Double check that all seams have properly clearance and that the clips are fully seated.
Re-attach grocery bag hook mounting screw, and tighten.

The NEG. battery terminal can be re-attached (and you can re-do your stereo settings too. LOL).

So, whether you go Bands:

....or Mesh:

...we can officially re-name it a "Storage Area" because it actually holds stuff! Very Happy

Enjoy!

TIME: Less than 1 hour.
COST: $5.00


2008 Kevan J. Geier
All Rights Reserved
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Bee Keeper
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ejection port is right! Very Happy


Nice job, I like the mesh best. Wink

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice, i to like the mess best.....
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I try to not use mine at all Very Happy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job!

Not sure anything has ever been in there before. Shocked

Very nice write up.

Keith were the heck are the thumbs of approval? Wink

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanx for the info partner...Lord know'z our itemz have been ejected several times during fast take offz heh Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats pretty sweet, but i have a 4X4 shift on the fly knob that occupies some of the space in the ejection port.

great write up though Cool

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bigjay wrote:
Nice job!

Not sure anything has ever been in there before. Shocked

Very nice write up.

Keith were the heck are the thumbs of approval? Wink


He's to busy sleeping, so I'll fill in!!!
hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah
hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah
hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah

Nice write up my friend, thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

THANKS FOR THE 411 AND THE TUTORIAL Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Da Beest wrote:
Bigjay wrote:
Nice job!

Not sure anything has ever been in there before. Shocked

Very nice write up.

Keith were the heck are the thumbs of approval? Wink


He's to busy sleeping, so I'll fill in!!!
hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah
hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah
hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah hellyeah

Nice write up my friend, thanks!


Thanks Joe!

and Jay i was not in on this one. Kevan kept me in the dark the entire time. the first i saw this was last night on the C.

Thanks for posting Kevan!
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good idea!! I had didn't know it was that easy to take the dash out. Your not kidding about it being an ejection port my phone launched into the rear storage space once at the track. 1.9 60ft Laughing
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ha gr8 idea my phone and radio remote has shot outta that thing so many times that now they stay in cup holder
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just use one of those cell phone pads in there which usually keeps it a little bit in the pocket. I like the write up. Better then the one where someone suggests to drill two holes i n the pocket and place one of those elastic bands in there..

And for the seal:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i like the mesh the best. good job man
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this should work nicly as i keep ejecting my remote for the radio on launches and have to look for it later.
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