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best 10" shallow mount sub?

 
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thejunkman2005
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:19 pm    Post subject: best 10" shallow mount sub? Reply with quote

Sup everybody!

I had a cheap 160$ 600w 4ohm bridged amp. I blew my 20amp small fuse on the amp, so I replaced it with a 30amp fuse.. See I know stereos. So, now I blew the fuse again, and the I believe the speaker I had.

Sony XPlod 10" sub... 4ohm, 800watt..

So, now i need to replace the speaker, I don't wanna go crazy, but I enjoy my 1990 rap music.. So, anybody have suggestions on what 10" sub I can get? Box is small, so shallow mount would probably be the best option, current sub is full size.

Now, when I put a new 30amp fuse in, no bass whatsoever, then about 10 on my stereo volume the fuse blows again and again. Speaker wire is brandy new, along with amp and spkr box.

Len

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

is there a fuse on your power wire coming from the battery? and i always go with alpine so i recommend the alpine type s sub or type r sub. they both fit very nicely in the cab. also be careful changing the amp fuse on the back of the amp. they put it as a 20 amp for a reason
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Meengreen5.2
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 2:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whats the rms wattage on the amp and on the sub? a sub with too much rms wattage can cause cutting out on the amp(over heating) and underpowering of the sub which can damage the voice coil. also make sure you have enough airspace, not enough airspace will blow a sub. some shallow mounts actually require lots of airspace.... so shop around
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aarhemi
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have 2 10in sub boxes i had in my truck they sit behind the seat,s u pay shipping and there yours i had Boston acoustic in them

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drivecustoms
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First off.... NEVER replace a blown fuse with a higher rated fuse on ANYTHING. Things have a rated fuse for a reason. I have seen dealers replace a fuse in a car that was have a problem with fuses blowing on a light circuit in a BMW and almost burn the car to the ground!

You have a lot of options when it comes to new equipment. When shopping for a sub and amp combo you need to know a few things. First what size sub(s) you want to use and what power you will need to drive those sub(s) Once you have picked the sub(s) you need to know what ohm load you will need for the amp you are looking at. Most mono (sub) amps put out all their power at 2 or 1 ohm. So if you are looking at say 2 12" subs and the amp you are looking at will do all its power at 1 ohm you will need to get problably DVC (dual voice coil) 4 ohm subs. That way you can wire the coils together to equal 1 ohm at the amp. If you are looking at an amp that will do a 2 ohm load you will need to get SVC (single voic coil) 4 ohm subs so you can wire them to a 2 ohm load at the amp. Another thing you need to do is match the amp power to the sub handling power. If your subs will take 500 watts each then try and get an amp that will do about 1000 watts.

Hope this helps you out a bit. If you have any questions about brands you are looking at just let me know and I will tell you if it is good or not.

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thejunkman2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, question.. Amp is rated at 300/600w.. Vehicle runs at 14v+DC.

So, simple ohms law...

at 300w, there should be 21a going through the fuse. Fuse is a 20a fuse.. It should pop?

Now, it hitting 600w, there is 42a going through the fuse... No way it would hold. Or am I looking at this wrong. What does that little fuse protect?

And, yes, I have a 40amp fuse going from the battery to the amp. I only replaced the small fuse on the amp with a 30, becaues my math and ohms law says that a 20amp would blow without hitting hard???

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RoasterStrudel
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thejunkman2005 wrote:
So, question.. Amp is rated at 300/600w.. Vehicle runs at 14v+DC.

So, simple ohms law...

at 300w, there should be 21a going through the fuse. Fuse is a 20a fuse.. It should pop?

Now, it hitting 600w, there is 42a going through the fuse... No way it would hold. Or am I looking at this wrong. What does that little fuse protect?

And, yes, I have a 40amp fuse going from the battery to the amp. I only replaced the small fuse on the amp with a 30, becaues my math and ohms law says that a 20amp would blow without hitting hard???


Major thing missing: RMS power. If you have a "600 watt" amp with a 20 amp fuse in it, chances are that's 600 watts of MAX power, probably at 1 KHz and distorted too. Fuses are generally safely rated at 125% of their continuous current rating and can easily handle short bursts of overcurrent, provided how much current over x amount of time. Even more so, nothing is 100% efficient, so some of that power is lost in heat.

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thejunkman2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, amp is 800w peak, 400w continuous. Pretty cheap amp, 169$ from local bargain hut place. 4ohm bridged, which is what I am using. It hits decent, speaker is 700w peak 4ohm speaker.. My last speaker was stuck, couldn't push it for anything.. I had 2 of these speakers that I got from a jeep I bought for parts, so for now I put in my 2nd speaker, and turned the thump down on the head unit.

Also, put away the NWA.. Smile

Len

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RoasterStrudel
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha...Awesome. Very Happy

Yeah, I remember when I first installed my Alpine in my other truck. Was quite surprised and it definitely kicked the butt out of that overly advertised "800 Watt" Sony GTX series that I had before. Interesting story about that, too...Kinda sounds like your problem. That Sony amp just roasted one night and blew up its own onboard fuses while listening at a lower volume. Checked my wiring, changed 'em with the same rating, and they popped again as soon as I put power to it. Needless to say, I opened it up and I didn't find anything burnt or shorted. It was five years old, and I was down for more power at that point anyway.

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drivecustoms
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am willing to bet money that what happened was this: Your sub blew and that caused the amp fuse to pop. You replaced it with a larger fuse and that caused the amp to blow. When you blow a speaker what happens is the speaker coil becomes a dead short. Most amps will go into a protection mode when this happens so that the amp will not blow. On a lot of the "cheaper" amps the fuse will just pop. The 20 amp fuse on your amp popped first because it was the smaller of the 2 you had in the power line being that you had a 40 amp fuse at the battery. Then when you replaced the 20 with a 30 and powered it up again still trying to drive that dead shorted speaker one of the components in the amp blew out. The 20 amp fuse was protecting the componets of the amp.

The Sony subs are not very good. I see a lot of them blown up. That is why they named the line Explode... Laughing

As for the amp I do not know what brand it was but if it only had a single 20 amp fuse in it the most that amp will ever do power wise is about 250 watts if its class D and 170 watts if it is class AB. The way you figure this out is take the total amprage of the amp (20 amp fuse = 20 amps) and multiply that by the vehicle voltage (say 14V with truck running) Then mulitply that total by 90% efficency for class D or 60% for class AB. If your amp was bridgable then it was most likely a class AB.

All fuses have a timed amprage curve. This means a fuse will pass up to 200% of its rated amprage for a set time. Usually in milaseconds.

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